I surf because I’m lucky. I’m lucky that this gift fell into my existence about 15 years ago. I was in a band called “Peak Show” and we had a gig in San Luis Obispo at a coffee shop called Linnea’s and a Professor from the local junior college brought a friend who happened to be a surfer and I liked it right of the bat. So, for me to get to know her I had to learn to surf and that’s how I got the bug for surfing. Sorta of a funny way to find surfing but it lasted and it lasted a lot longer then dating her!!! But for me the stoke has always been about the Ocean and experience that huge gift and surfing is one of the outlets but possible tied for surfing is bodysurfing…I absolutely love to body surf. I love to feel my body completely connected to the ocean and when you catch a great wave with just your body and it takes you to the shoreline, where the wave throws you up on the sand bank! that is an awesome feeling and exclamation mark on that rad experience.
Today, I bodysurfed twice. I woke up in the early morning and rode my bike down to the beach and I mediated for a few minutes on the shore and then I jumped in (I’m still trunking it..no need for a wetsuit yet but it’s getting close the water is starter to get cold) it is such an amazing way to start my day, I am instantly in the zone. You can feel, hear, see, touch, smell INSTANTLY. I think that’s one of the high’s associated with the surf bug. Because it gets you on all your sense memories and it locks you in. I went out for my last body surf session about 2 hrs ago. I watched the sunset from the beach with sand between my toes…praying and meditating in my own way and what came to me was “Be The Change” I’m going to make a hat with “Be The Change” on it. It’s so simple but that’s what came to me and came to me as the sun was setting over the Mountains it was very beautiful and extremely vivid.
I am thankful to be alive and to be able to share this journey with the world.
In Rad We Trust
Vamos Go Vamos!!!